The hotel

On Porto’s equivalent of the Champs-Élysées, the Monumental Palace (rooms from £350, hotelstheone.com) is a 1920s stunner: art deco metalwork, luxe marble and a hidden speakeasy bar. Once you’ve checked in, check out its restaurants. Yakuza for outstanding sushi, and Michelin-starred Le Monument – its tasting menu transports you across Portugal. And don’t miss a stroll down the historic Rua das Flores, a five-minute walk from the hotel.

The market

Strap in for a day-long affair at Mercado do Bolhão in the historic centre. Locals and tourists stroll around its food stalls – fresh oysters, charcuterie, cheeses and salt cod fritters – with a glass of port in hand. It gets crowded, but the atmosphere is joyful. Stop off at Confeitaria do Bolhão, directly opposite, for pudding. Once a favourite of Anthony Bourdainits chef’s kiss pastries and a generous glass of house wine will come to less than £5.

The cellars

Did someone say port lodge? We are in Porto after all, and its iconic wine cellars are strung along the southern bank of the Douro River. Wander over the city’s dizzyingly high Dom Luis bridge or take a scenic cable car and start at Graham’s (tours and tastings from £26). Founded by two Scottish brothers back in 1820, it is one of Porto’s most famous cellars. With your guide, explore its barrels, then enjoy a tasting looking out across the city’s rooftops.

The neighbourhood

Recommended by our taxi driver, the industrial harbour neighbourhood of Matosinhos is the place to go if you like fish (a meal for two and a bottle of wine is around £30). A 30-minute drive from the centre, its eateries cook the catch of the day over naked flames. And when everywhere is filled with locals, you know it must be good. Plus, there’s a wide beach and various festivals (jazz, surfers, sardines, you name it) throughout summer.

The restaurant

For dinner with a side order of spectacular views, head to Bacalhau. Hidden on the raised winding street of Muro dos Bacalhoeiros, it overlooks the Douro. Order anything with cod or rice and you won’t regret it. As for the wine – its house vinho verde is a dream gargle. They don’t take bookings, so arrive early to nab a table outside (£50-60 for a meal with wine). However, be warned: you can only sit in groups of two as the walkway is narrow.

The day trip

Hungry for some culture? You can spend at least half a day at Serralves art museum (tickets from £21), a 40-minute bus ride from Porto. Explore its contemporary works then head to its famous villa, a 1930s art deco mansion hewn from locally sourced pink granite. Everything from the walls to floors has a warm rose hue. Then head to the extensive gardens for large-scale works by the likes of Anish Kapoor and Richard Serra.

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